Moscow, february, 1998
Bitter, bitter cold winds that burrow under every layer of clothing
like an unwelcome pet.
Large, burly men dressed in black extending menacing stares beneath
heavy slavic brows.
sentimental toasts over small very cold glasses of vodka and steaming
bowls of pelmeni, pickled salted vegetables and caviar.
stark contrast of a minimalist Red Square echoing history to anyone
the soaring golden kupolas of the kremlin promising more than any
Muscovite dares hope for.
coats and diamonds
women and body guards
snow and uninspired architecture
Russian babushka serving me coffee, bologna, dark bread and cheese
in her small kitchen while her grandson practices his English on
long, dirty crowded ride in three cars from Moscow to a Dacha in
blini with caviar, dark aromatic bread and sawing wood in the deep
snow with the old man.
in the deep snow in the moonlight, body guards trailing in the distance
at gunpoint and robbed by the police at 2AM in the blowing snow
taxi driver was in on it
subway terminals, like much of the beauty in Russia - subterranean.
knocking on my door at the Moscow Aerostar Their siren calls answered
by others who opened doors mumbling assent in six or seven languages.
thousand dollar phone bill
at the airport with no regrets.
Switzerland, April 13, 1997 Beau Rivage Hotel
French call it L'heure bleu; that moment when the sun is gone but
its memory is still reflected in the sky. I stand here on the shore
of Lac Leman watching fishing birds cartwheel over its smooth surface,
reflecting the dying colors saturating the snow-encumbered slopes
of the French alps and Mont Blanc.
as I am by a bottle of Swiss wine I resolve to never leave, but
I know that resolution will be gone in the morning, replaced with
the omnipresent urgencies of life.
in Egypt - Part One - Being an account of how I ended
up by myself in Cairo three weeks after the massacre at Luxor. My
flight to Israel from Frankfurt was cancelled due to a strike by
the border guard and I made the dubious decision to fly to Cairo
and cross the border into Israel once it reopened. I wandered across
the country for four days, dove in the Red Sea and finally made
it to Israel. More to come. Click